Lwów

What to say about Lwów–there is so much! I have other blog posts and other folders of pictures devoted to the Lychakiv Cemetery and to some of the churches we visited. But the city itself is quite interesting, and this post is devoted to the various pictures I took in and around the center of Lwów. You can see those pictures here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Poland%202011/Lwów/index.html

Historically, Lwów ( L’viv in Ukrainian) was one of the main Polish and Jewish cultural centers of Poland. Before World War II, Poles and Jews made up the vast majority of the inhabitants of Lwów . But after the war and the Polish populaton was “relocated, ” and, of course, the Jewish population was wiped out by the German Nazis. Sad but true.

The city of Lwów is not much changed from after the war. Many of the old roads and buildings survived, as you can see in my pictures. I won’t go into a lot of the history of Lwów , you can do that by reading for yourself here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lviv. But I will cover some of the highlights of my pictures, starting from the beginning, our entry into Lwów .

Ukraine is a very poor country. The roads and buildings of Lwów give testament to that fact. But still, it’s a beautiful and vibrant city. We got to Lwów in the middle of the day and had a chance to look around, once we’d settled into our apartment. The downtown area is full of people and quite alive.

The opera house and the downtown square area were full of people on a nice Saturday afternoon. One thing of great note is the tall monument to the Polish poet, Adam Mickewicz. I learned firsthand from Alicja the significance of Mickiewicz. The monument to him is a very powerful reminder of the place he has in Polish history and in the soul of what it means to be Polish.

As we were walking around, we came upon some women dressed in traditional Ukrainian garb. Very cool.

I would characterize Lwów as a somewhat modern city that has an old and somewhat in need of repair infrastructure. But Ukraine (today) is a new country. When we were there, they were celebrating only their 20th anniversary of independence (from the former Soviet Union). So they have a ways to go. It is modern, but in need of some infrastructure update. But they are working on it.

Later in the day we decided to go to the central Lviv Rail Terminal. The road we took to get there was undergoing a major renovation. But the Terminal itself is quite amazing. At one point Alicja took me to a sort of alcove that she had visited as a child. At that time there had been a statue of Lenin there….today that statue has “disappeared.”

Later we took a cab from the Terminal to the top of the hill overlooking Lwów. Long ago there was a castle/fortification here, but it was long ago destroyed and never rebuilt. Still the view was spectacular. Unfortunately, photos cannot do it justice, but I shall never forget that view, it was awesome.

I could write about Lwów and talk about Lwów for days. The time we spent there was very special, very wonderful. But I hope you can get some sense of that from my pictures. Enjoy!

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Halicz Zamek

We were driving through Ukraine when we came upon an interesting sight…. High atop a hill we saw what appeared to be an old castle. We had to investigate. After asking directions a few times, we finally found ourselves in the small town of Halych (Halicz in Polish) along the Dniester River. There, high above the river, we saw the castle.

So, Wojtek and I climbed up quite a hill and series of stairs to see this amazing place. There is not a lot of it left, but it was built and used between the 13th and 17th centuries. There is a fair amount of it left, as you can see in the photos, and the view from “up there” is spectacular. It is currently some sort of historic site and had an armed guard of some sort looking over the area, but he kept his distance and allowed us tourists to look around.

It was right near Ukrainian Independence Day, so we saw some of the festivities that were going on while we were there as well. You can read more about this amazing place here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halych . And, if you can read and understand Ukrainian (and/or, hint, use google translate, here: http://www.galych-rada.gov.ua/varto-vidvidaty/halytskyj-zamok/ ).

To see my pictures, visit my Poland album here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Poland%202011/Halicz%20Zamek/index.html

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Lublin

The city of Lublin is an ancient city, and plays an important role in Polish history for several reasons. It is located in an area of Poland that was often contested by wars long ago and it was of some importance as a city along a trade route, especially for trade between Poland and Lithuania. In 1569, it was the site of the signing of the Union of Lublin, a pact which united Lithuania and Poland, created a superpower in Europe at the time, a union which was instrumental in saving Europe from foreign domination.

In later years, Lublin was a center for Jewish culture and education, home to many Jews and a world-renowned center for Jewish study. By 1918, about 40% of Lublin’s population was Jewish. The Nazis in World War II exterminated nearly all the Jews and the few that remained later left, mostly to Israel.

Today Lubin is a somewhat poor city, but rich in history. We stayed there for an evening and visited the Castle which was close, and several churches. I took quite a few pictures. You can see some of them here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Poland%202011/Lublin/index.html.

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Kryvche Grotto

One of the most interesting and unique natural things I saw on my trip was the Kryvche Grotto, a cave. It is near the town of Kryvche in Ukraine (near Khotyn). The town of Kryvche is known mainly because of its cave system, and it is one of the longest in the world. There is also a ruin of a castle nearby.

To get to the cave you literally have to go on the smallest of backroads–and ask direction a few times because there are not many signs. As a matter of fact, I don’t think there are any signs. But it was well worth the trip to see this amazing natural phenomenon. The cave is very extensive and known for it’s interesting crystal formations, some of which you can see in my pictures. This is also called the Crystal Caves, and you can read a bit more about it here.

We took a tour of the cave. The tour goes about 500 meters into the caves–it really is fascinating, but definitely not for the claustrophopic or anyone not sure of foot. It was up and down, through very tight places, many times bending way down. We probably walked for a good hour. The place was lit…for a while… but it still was not for the faint of heart. Bats fluttered about, and we saw some amazing rock formations that look like various animals and people. It was a very amazing place.

You can see my pictures here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Poland%202011/Kryvche%20Grotto/index.html.

You can also see a nice set of pictures on You Tube here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__yqkMMGC4w .

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Zamość

What to say about Zamość? It is a wonderful and historic city. It was founded in 1580 by Jan Zamoyski, chancellor and hetman (military leader). It was on a trade route linking the Black Sea with northern and western Europe.  The city was designed as a Renaissance town, and maintains a lot of that character. You can see that in my pictures here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Poland%202011/Zamość/index.html.

At one time the central city was a walled fortress, but years of war have removed most of that. Still, it has many historic features and is well worth your time visiting. You can read more about the city of Zamość here, and a bit about the fortress that Zamość used to be here. Take a look, learn a bit of history, learn a bit about the Zamoyski family that played a big part in the history of Poland, and enjoy! I hope you enjoy my pictures!

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Kozłówka Palace

The Kozłówka Palace is officially known as the Zamoyski Museum in Kozłówka (Muzeum Zamoyskich w Kozłówce–you can read about it in English from this link). It is a large rococo and neoclassical palace located in Kozłówka, not far from Lublin.  Its architecture is original, a merger of European art with old Polish traditions. 

The Zamoyski family plays an important part in Polish history, and this palace was at one time one of their residences. Probably the most famous member of the family was Jan Zamoyski who became  chancellor and hetman (military leader).

The palace itself is very beautiful, as you can see from my pictures here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Poland%202011/Kozłówka%20Palace/index.html. The grounds are maintained impeccably, and we visited at the perfect time of year, the peak of summer, the peak season for all the flowers and landscape. Of course, I was not able to take pictures of the inside of the museum, but take a look at the first link above, there are some nice pictures there and the virtual tour is absolutely wonderful…I saw all these amazing things. I hope you’ll take the time to look around, too. The direct link to the virtual tour is here. Just click the buttons or the arrows to move around, it’s really fantastic. There are also some little gold “information” buttons you can click on to learn more. I saw all of these amazing things.

Among the notable and interesting things at this fine palace is the museum that is in one of the stables–a museum of socrealizm. This is a style of art popularized in the communist area and meant to depict realistic situations and designed to further the goals of socialism and communism. It also is artwork created in an environment that did not tolerate free expression but was ripe with censorship and a “tow the party line” mentality.  In today’s modern Poland, this museum is referred to as a museum of “unwanted” socialism-era art.

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Upside Down House

OK, so this post’s title is really a misnomer, but I really was in an upside down house in Poland, and it really is something to see. But this post and the pictures that accompany it are about a lot more than just a house that is upside down.

This is really about an attraction of sorts. It was built by a Polish philanthropist, Daniel Czapiewski, near Szymbark, Poland. Though the main attraction may be the upside down house, this place is about a lot more than that. I believe it’s called the Centrum Edukaci I Promocji Regionu–the Center for Education and Regional Promotion. In many ways, it promotes the Kaszubian region of Poland. The attraction contains many elements, and I took photos of many of them. You can see the photos here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Poland%202011/Upside%20Down%20House/index.html.

The following is about these pictures in rough order that you’ll see them:

  • One of the first things you see when you walk in is the world’s longest table that is made from a single tree. It is indeed something. There are pictures of how it was made, and even then-President Lech Wałęsa took part in the cutting.
  • Siberia — there is a “house” of sorts that was brought from Siberia. It shows the way people (prisoners) had to live and sleep. In Siberia, if you were unlucky enough to sleep against the wall, the person next to you might wake up in the morning to find you dead, frozen stiff.
  • Train — Many people were taken to Siberia after the war. Some returned (including a relative of mine), but many did not. The people were loaded like cattle into the train cars. Not very comfortable traveling.
  • World War II Underground Bunker — The resistance (partisans) in Poland built some extensive underground bunkers where they’d retreat to escape German bombing. They even lived in these bunkers. We were in one, it is quite amazing, quite cramped, and quite dark when the lights are out!
  • Rock with shell in it — There is a huge rock where a shell from German bombardment is embedded.
  • Church — A small church gives testimony to the religiousness of Poland.
  • Huge Grand Piano — This may be the world’s largest grand piano. I think it’s about 13 feet wide and maybe 6 feet high. It’s huge!
  • Brewery — They brew their own beer here. I had a taste, it’s very good.
  • Zipline — There is a zipline, fun for kids, I’m sure
  • Assorted things — Such as old farm implements, an old stump hoist, and many more antiquest.
  • Small “zoo” — Well, really just a few deer and ducks/geese in a pond. There are horses too.
  • Upside Down House — This is certainly the main attraction. We waited an hour in line to get in. When you go in, it is really amazing because everything is at angles and your brain tells you one thing while your sense of balance tells you something totally different. You stagger around this place like you’re drunk, it’s really something. The pictures do not do it justice, but it was a lot of fun

You can read more about the “meaning” of the upside down house here: http://www.cepr.pl/en/?upside-down-house,9

If you’d like to take a virtual tour of this whole attraction, go here: http://wkraj.pl/index.php?page=vr&start=24086. It’s worth a visit!

We had a great time here, and the kids sure enjoyed the upside down house a lot.

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Muzeum Hymnu Narodowego

On Thursday, August 18th we visited the Museum of the National Anthem of Poland in the tiny town of Będomin, Poland, a bit southwest of the Trojmiasto area (the three cities, Gdańsk, Gdynia, and Sopot). I have previously written about the history of the Polish National Anthem, Jeszcze Polska nie zginęł. Literally, the title means “Poland is not yet lost” or “Poland has not yet perished.” My original post on the song is well worth your time.

So on August 18th, we set off to see this tiny museum. The pictures I took are here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Poland%202011/National%20Anthem%20Museum/index.html. I won’t bore you with the details of what each picture is about. Suffice it to say that they portray patriotism and some semblance of life and customs from aroudn 1897 when the hymn was penned.

Visiting that day, besides me, was Alicja and Filip, and family friends Patricja with her son Jędrzej. We had a very nice time at this small museum. One of the most interesting things we saw here was a Cymbały, the stringed instrument from which our common ancestors got their name. I wrote about the Cymbały in a previous post, as I actually saw one being played when we were in Lwów.

So, take a few minutes and read about the history of this song. It’s message is at the heart of what it means to be Polish. Through centuries of turnmoil, wars, partitions, foreign domination, and other trials, Poland indeed has not perished. And I believe, it never will. It’s in the heart and soul–at the very being–of every Polish person and, I believe, of every person of Polish heritage such as me–and maybe you!

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A Beach on the Baltic

Poland has a nice shoreline along the Baltic Sea, and in the summer, it becomes a wonderful playground. On our travels around Poland, we stopped by one such beach one day. I don’t remember the town, but the pictures I took sure bring back wonderful memories.
The wind off the Baltic was a bit chilly, but this is mitigated by the wind barriers people put up. Other than that, we could have been on any nice Florida beach. The sand was plentiful and soft, the sun shining brightly. Some people frolicked in the water, some just laid and soaked up the sun. There were games and attractions right on the beach, and a few steps away a mini-town area with restaurants, shops, bars, and other fun stuff.
A few more paces away and we came upon a campground. We wanted to tour it but were shooed away–campers only. Still, I got a photo or two. You can see my pictures here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Poland%202011/Baltic%20Sea%20-%20Beach/index.html.

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Frombork

Frombork is an old town in Poland that dates back to the 13th century, but it’s main claim to fame is twofold. First, it is a town where Nicholas Copernicus resided–from Frombork he did some of his astronomical observations. Secondly, it is the home of the famous Frombork Cathedral, situated high atop a hill and surrounded by a massive wall–defensive fortifications from an era now past. The Cathedral and its fortifications suffered massively during World War II, but it has since been meticulously restored.

Wojtek and I climbed to the top of the massive, tall tower that overlooks the cathedral and the fortress. From there you can see the town, the Baltic, and quite a lot of the distant area. We also took a look inside of the cathedral, it is beautiful and quite traditional.

You can see my pictures from Frombork here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Poland%202011/Frombork/index.html. Check out the outside views, the interior of the church, and notice the statue of Copernicus (in the distance) in one of the later outside views.

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