Tarnoruda – St. Stanislaus Church

Today I am writing about a place that has a very special place in my heart: St. Stanislaus Polish Roman Catholic Church in Tarnoruda, Ukraine, called Kościół p.w. św. Stanisława B. M. Tarnoruda is a small town in the Khmelnytskyi region of the Volochysk District in Western Ukraine. It is located only a kilometer or two from Faschivka. Fascivka is the town where my great-grandfather, Aleksandr Cymbał, was born and raised. And, most likely he was baptized at St. Stanislaus in Tarnoruda, the nearest Roman Catholic Church. And that is most likely the church where he and his family attended services in his younger years. He was only about 19 years old when he came to the USA, forever leaving behind his parents. But all that is a story for another day.

When we visited with my third cousin Michał, in Faschivka this summer, he took us to Tarnoruda, to see the church. He also knew who was taking care of this magnificent historic place, an old man by the name of Pan (Mr.) Hibner. He has the keys to the church, and he not only let us in, but showed us around, showed us many, many precious items. You can see in one of the photos, the old keys of the church.

My pictures are here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Poland%202011/Tarnoruda-St.%20Stanislaus%20Church/index.html.

But Pan Hibner was full of interesting stories. During World War II, he actually hid many of the church artifacts, keeping them first from the Russians, then from the Germans, and again from the Russians. He showed us many of them. And some of them, he has in his house, located not far away. He took us there too and showed us many, many old things, chalices, a monstrance, old prayer books, vestments, a true treasure trove of old artifacts. And it was made all the more special by the fact that this was the church of my great-great-grandfather and his family, many of whom immigrated to the US in the first part of the 20th century.

So, I invite you to look through the photos. Many are from the church, inside and out. Some from the sacristy, some from the choir loft. Some are from his home where he lives very simply and now alone since the death of his wife many years ago. A simple man who does the work of angels, preserving a valuable relic, and for me, a link to the past. Enjoy!

Posted in 2011 Poland Trip, historic sites, Kresy, My Polish Family, Ukraine | 4 Comments

Eating Poland: Top Polish First Courses

Do you like to eat Polish food as much as I do? I love it: eat, cooking, reading about…. All of the above. On my two trips to Poland, i was fortunate enough to have a wide variety and range of Polish food. So, when I found a web site that lists 27 of the top first courses in Polish Cuisine, I was ecstatic. And so, I want to share it with you: http://www.tastingpoland.com/food/polish_food_first_courses.html.

Take a look, and, if you dare, leave me a comment to tell me how many of these dishes you have eaten (or made!). Smacznego!

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Trzech Kroli

Today in Poland it is Trzech Kroli, the feast of the Three Kings. It is the twelfth night (Swiety Wieczory) of Christmas . Kind of the official end of the Christmas season and the beginning of carnival (zapusty) which culminates in Ash Wednesday, I believe–or maybe it’s Candlemas Day, Feb. 2nd. At any rate, today is Trzech Kroli.

On this night Poles take small boxes containing amber, a gold ring, and incense–and a piece of chalk. With the chalk they will write on their doorposts in honor of the three kings, a hope for protection against illness and misfortune in 2012, They will write: 20 K+M+B 12

They may also bake a King Cake with a lucky coin or almond baked into it. The one who receives that will host the next party.

You can read more about the Polish Trzech Kroli customs here: http://easteuropeanfood.about.com/od/polishchristmastraditions/a/threekings.htm.

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Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku

Or, in English, Happy New Year!

Here’s wishing each and every one of you health and prosperity in the New Year, 2012.

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Zhovkva

Zhovkva (or Żółkiew in Polish) is a historically Polish town that is in western Ukraine, not far from the Polish border. We arrived in Zhovkva late in the afternoon and stayed overnight, planning on getting up very early in the morning to drive to and cross the border , which we did. But we had a few hours to wander this historic city. You can see my pictures here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Poland%202011/Zhovkva/index.html.

Zhovkva is a historic city and has been around since the 14th century. It was a fortified city and sat at an important trade crossroads. In the 17th century it became the royal residence of King John III Sobieski and was a hub of religious life, arts, and commerce. We saw this castle which is currently undergoing restoration, as are some of the churches, as you can see from the pictures. Also in evidence are some parts of the old city walls and other old structures.

Zhovkva has a very nice and large city square, as you can see from the pictures. Huge, really for the small city it is. Today Zhovkva remains a small city, but with a big history, a very interesting history. I’m sure glad we had a chance to visit it.

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Ciechocinek

I spent a wonderful evening, night, and morning in Ciechocinek when I was in Poland this past summer, and I have the pictures to prove it posted here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Poland%202011/Ciechocinek/index.html.

Ciechocinek is a small town of about 11,000 people, but is well known for its healing abilities. From medieval times, its salt spring’s health benefits were recognized. In the 19th century, almost 2 km long worth of graduation towers were built. During World War II it was used exclusively for rehabilitation of German soldiers. Today it continues to be a spa area and many people come there for it’s healing benefits. You can read more about the history of Ciechocinek here.

Wojtek, Alicja, and I drove to Ciechocinek for an overnight stay and had a wonderful time. We arrived to our rooms around late afternoon. It was a nice place, not too far from the city center, just a bit of a walk. Soon after we got there, we set out for some fun. While Alicja went to have a pedicure and a spa treatment, Wojtek and I went to the pool where we enjoyed the therapeutic effects of moving water. It was a lot of fun.

Eventually we got dressed and headed out for the evening. We went to a dance hall and paid the admission price. We had dinner there, it was very good, as you can see from the pictures. We also ordered a bottle of vodka with our meal–only in Poland. And we dran kit. There was an admission price due to the gypsy band that was playing. It was very good and there was singing and dancing. In some of the later pictures you can see the posters that advertised the entertainment. So we ate and drank and danced the night away. We ended up with a nightcap in Wojtek and Alicja’s room, though truthfully did not need that last drink.

The next day we got up and set about touring the town. It’s a very picturesque town with lots of beautiful gardens and flowers. Of course one of the main attractions for us was the Tężnie, the graduation towers. They total about 2 kilometers in length. Their purpose is to concentrate the salt/mineral waters that come from the famous healing spring there. The wood sticks help aid in evaporation, thus concentrating the water and the minerals in it. Alicja and I climbed to the top where we had a nice view. They are pretty impressive, actually.

So, take a look at the pictures, and experience a bit of Ciechocinek with me, it was a fantastic time.

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Tczew

I spent a most wonderful day in Tczew in September 2011 with my (3rd) cousin Irena, her daughter Barbara, and her sister-in-law Teresa. Among the high points of the day was the three meals I ate at Barbara’s restaurant, Restauracja Kulturalna Piwnica. The food was awesome. But let me start at the beginning of the day.

Alicja alerted me that my cousin Irena would be picking me up for the day. I also learned that Irena did not speak any English. No matter, I had enough (bad) Polish to get by, and that was indeed the case.

You can see my pictures from my day in Tczew here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Poland%202011/Tczew/index.html.

Our first stop was at the cemetery in Tczew to visit the graves or Irena’s parents and her brother, who had passed away in the past year. It was a sobering experience, but I’m glad we got to go there.

Next, we headed to Barbara’s restaurant, Restauracja Kulturalna Piwnica. There, they had arranged to have one of the staff who spoke English join us. She spoke fine English, but it really wasn’t necessary. I think relatives communicate on a different plane, and we managed just fine. And so Irena, Barbara, Teresa and I enjoyed a nice bit of dessert at the restaurant. It was excellent.

Next we took off for Irena’s apartment. It was a very nice place in a somewhat older building. We spent a nice time mostly looking at older photos of family. It was amazing to see that among her photos, Irena had pictures of my great-grandparents, Alex and Kathryn Symbal (Cymbal).

Eventually we returned to the restaurant to eat again. This time we started with a very excellent soup, chicken, with find angel-hair like noodles. It was very good. There were also potatoes, pork with sauerkraut (also excellent) and some veggies–tomatoes and cucumbers. It was a feast fit for a king!

After that dinner, we headed to some cultural attractions in Tczew. Tczew is an ancient city, with ruins and artifacts dating back to prehistoric times. We visited the local cultural center where I was able to tour the exhibits with a device that talked to me in English, explaining the various exhibits. Way cool!

After that we went down to the river. One of the most famous landmarks in Tczew is the bridge over the Wisła river. The main bridge was constructed in the 1850s. At close to a kilometer in length when it was constructed, at the time it was one of the longest bridges in the world! Originally it had 10 towers, but today only four remain. A second bridge was built near the end of the 19the century, this one a railway bridge.

We also visited downtown Tczew (the square) and several churches, as you can see in the pictures. It’s a very quaint town.

After our visit to the regional museum and the bridge, we again returned to the restaurant to eat. Yes, again! Our last meal consisted of several varieties of galaretka and some meats, cheeses and breads. All were most excellent. I was most well taken care of by my cousin Irena, her daughter Barbara, and her sister-in-law Teresa. The pictures themselves tell the tale of the fantastic day I had there. Enjoy!

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Wesołych Świąt Bożego Narodzenia

The last few weeks have been busy as I prepared for Christmas. But now that Christmas has arrived, I have a few minutes. I want to wish you all a very Merry Christmas. I’ll be back writing more soon.

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S. + P. Moja Kuzynka Sonja

I will take a break in posting pictures of my most recent trip to Poland to tell you a bit about my previous (and first) trip, and one of the extraordinary people who was on that trip, my cousin Sonja. Sonja is the first cousin of my mother (in Poland I’d call her ciocia, “aunt.”) Sonja’s mother and my mother’s Mom were sisters. But why am I telling you about Sonja today? Well, sadly, Sonja passed away this past Thursday, December 8th, 2011, on a Catholic Holy Day, the feast of the Immaculate Conception, after a brief but intense battle with cancer. Sonja was only 74. She is very much missed.

Sonja’s children, all six of them, are my second cousins. They are all roughly the same ages as me and my siblings, and when we were younger, we spent many a good time together, first as children playing, and then later as older children and young adults, camping, playing, drinking beer, playing games, and telling stories. Some of my best memories are from times spent with Sonja and her family. They have been, and continue to be, a part of our family. We are Polish. We know what “family” really means!

But this post is about Sonja on our trip to Poland, and I’ve culled through the thousands of photos I took in Poland to find these pictures that each have Sonja in them in some way, and each tell a bit of the story of that wonderful trip. You can see the pictures here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Albums/Sonja/.

Let me set the stage of our trip…… I heard about this upcoming tour to Poland through my sister, Mary…it was being organized and led by a friend of hers, Chris. So I decided I just had to go. And i sent the brochure to my Mom’s cousin Pat, who also lives here in Florida (and Pat and Sonja are also first cousins). At first, Pat said “thanks but no thanks.” And then one day, she had a conversation with Sonja. Now, I didn’t really know about “the two of them” before this, but as I’ve later learned, they were more like sisters than cousins. Quite a lot of trouble–but in a good sense. And before I knew it, Pat and Sonja were joining me on the trip to Poland. Wow, I was overjoyed and amazed. Now, they will tell you that they went along to keep me in line and out of trouble….and I will tell you that I went to keep them in line and out of trouble…but you will never find out the whole truth about our amazing trip because we did make that famous pledge to each other….”what happens in Poland stays in Poland.” And to this day I cannot violate that. You’ll just have to wonder about what all went on there…. but I’ll tell you this, it was an amazing trip!

By the way, I suppose you’re wondering why the title of this blog starts out with “S. + P.”….well, I’ll tell you in a bit. But I will say that “moja kuzynka Sonja” can be translated as “my cousin Sonja.” I’m sure my Polish friends will correct my grammar if needed….

So on August 31st, 2010, I flew to Chicago, and there I met up with Sonja and Pat (and briefly saw Sonja’s daughters, my second cousins). And before you knew it, we were on the plane and on our way to Poland. To Poland! A dream of mine. And going with some relatives. How can life get any better, I wondered? Well, it did!

And for the next two weeks, we trekked through Poland. But it was shortly into our trip that we (Pat, Sonja, and I) had a most amazing experience. You see, I had earlier in the year made a connection with a “long lost” cousin, a relative of ours, in the Gdansk area. And we were going to be in Gdansk. So, to make a long story short (at least a bit shorter), after an evening of “relaxing” with a few beers in a local Beer Garden, Sonja, Pat, and I returned to our hotel to find our Polish cousins waiting for us. It was a most amazing experience. And so if you look at the pictures, you will see some taken at the hotel in Gdansk with our cousins Alicja, Ludwika, Bartek, Paulina, and Wojtek. Of course if you’re a regular reader of my blog, you know much more about these people, as i visited them again this past summer…. But this story today and these pictures are about Sonja and our trip to Poland in 2010….

Our meeting with our relatives in Gdansk was monumental, and it precipitated my most recent trip, but the trip in 2010 was in itself quite an amazing journey. We ventured to many points in Poland and got to see great sights in Gdansk, Mazuria, Malbork, Warszawa, Rzeszow, Sandomierz, Zakopane, Krakow, and Wroclaw, among others. And at night, we had a lot of fun as well. So I will tell one or two stories here, and you can fill in the blanks, because “what happens in Poland stays in Poland.” I can’t say much more.

In Krakow, we’d had a long day. In the first half of the day, quite a few of us toured the salt mines at Wieliczka Salt Mine, including Sonja. There was a lot of walking, but it was mostly downhill. Sonja had her wheelchair and, as was customary for most of our trip, Dennis did the lion’s share of pushing it, but others also took turns. It was quite a sight, to see these mines. And then in the afternoon, Sonja and many of our group went to Auschwitz, the German Concentration camp, built on Polish soil, where the German Nazis a million or more of Jews. Sonja and the rest came back from that excursion and were quite somber. But later in the evening, while unwinding, I was sent out not once, but twice, on a “piwo run”…I had to get some beer for them. You see, most of my fellow travelers, including Sonja and Pat, were playing cards and drinking beer–unwinding after a very emotional day.

And you can also see our picutres from Zakopane, from up in the mountains. Yes, we had a few piwa there too. And quite a wonderful time. The memories of our amazing trip, our amazing journey, are as fresh in my mind as the day those event happened. We laughed, we ate, we toured, we walked, and we enjoyed–we enjoyed Poland, the land of our ancestors. The trip was, for me, made all the more special and memorable because of Sonja and Pat–there was something special about traveling with family. And that continues to live on in my mind, even to this day.

So Sonja passed away this week. It was not unexpected, but then again, it was not expected nore wanted quite this soon. She found she had cancer early this fall and put up a good fight. She had a great life, but live is always too short, and hers was way too short–yet, we don’t always get to choose. She leaves behind 6 wonderful children, my second cousins (Robin, Debbie, Sue, Billy, Timmy, and Scott, in no particular order), about a dozen or so grandchildren, and a fairly new great-grandhchild. But on her trip to Poland, and in her life, Sonja demonstrated that Polish trait that shows how important family is. So I grieve for the loss, but take comfort in the wonderful life she led and in the legacy she left. I’ll miss her–we’ll all miss her–but we won’t forget her. Which brings me to the next point….

So I promised to tell you about the S. + P. If you go to Poland, or even to some old cemeteries in the USA where a lot of Polish people were buried years ago, you’ll see something like S. + P. and the name. So what does that mean? I stands for Świętej Pamięci, “Holy Remembrance.” And why am I speaking in Polish now? Well, when we met our Gdansk cousins, after a bit, Sonja found that she suddenly remembered how to speak in Polish. And she was able to speak to our Polish cousins in Polish. And in her last days, she spoke to one of her sons in Polish, too. When he asked her why, she said she was getting ready to speak to our Polish relatives in heaven, and I’m sure she is doing just that right now…. And so, in “American,” Rest in Peace dear cousin Sonja. You are remembered….

P.S. to Sonja… I am studying Polish, so watch out when I get up there! 🙂 And maybe then…. what “stayed in Poland” may just get let out!

Posted in My Polish Family, Poland Tour 2010, Uncategorized | 6 Comments

Kamieniec Podolski Castle-Fortress

The city of Kameniec Podolski is situated on an interesting “bulge” in the Smotrycz River in Ukraine. Think of a cartoon baloon above the head of a cartoon character. The bulge or “baloon” is the city of Kamieniec Podolski. And the “point” of the words is where the mighty fortress sits. You can see a picture of that situation here:

Notice how the fortress protects the only entrance to the city and how there are steep “canyon” type rock formations all around. No wonder why this fortress was so important to the Polish and Polish-Lithuanian Republics–as well as to invaders.

Today, the remains of this Castle/Fortress are very impressive, and it is a main tourist attraction of the city of Kamieniec-Podolski. We spent two nights in a hotel in this city and saw many sights in the area. I wrote a bit more about the city itself in a recent blog post here: https://poland.leonkonieczny.com/blog/?p=643.

But this post and these pictures are about the castle. Wojtek and I spent about 1 1/2 hours here in the late afternoon, and the next morning we all walked down to see the Castle…. Yes, it was only a few blocks from the city center where our hotel was located. You can see my photos of this amazing place here: http://poland.leonkonieczny.com/Poland%202011/Kamieniec%20Podolski%20Castle-Fortress/index.html.

Notice how it sits across from the old town, connected by a bridge. That bridge itself is considered a medieval feat of great engineering skill. And sitting high on a hill and overlooking the river far below gave it a great advantage over its enemies.

To read more about this interesting fortress and it’s history, check out this Wikipedia article here.

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